Dior by Dior - Book Review - Schmoozing Over Coffee
- August 14, 2020
- By Samriddha Bhattacharya
- 0 Comments
The man who has built Maisan Dior - the home of Christian Dior, had never even thought that he would be the creator of one of the most popular haute couture brands across the world someday.
To begin with, he was a shy man, living happily working as a designer for a fashion house that he was very well settled in. But as chance would have it, he got called in by then industry magnate Boussac to takeover and remodel an existing fashion brand all on his own. Dior, the always doubtful man that he was, took quite a while to drive up a decision. He refused to take up the job, but offered to create an entirely new house of fashion right from scratch.
All of this happened in the year of 1947, right after the war, when Dior thought that women deserved to get out of the blase pantsuits and into something that celebrated the female form. Thus entered the "emphasized bosoms, hollowed waists and accentuated hips" in his collection "New Look" and it took the women of France by a storm.
He describes every phase of his couture life in undeniable detail and the descriptions of how he prepared for his collections every season is an absolute delight to read! He divides his process in explicable detail. About 60 sketches are formed in nights of creative haze, and then comes the visualization of those fabulous dreams. He had a team full of women dedicated to the craft to the point of it being a crime. They were there with him in all the hours he spent in the house of 30 Montaigne Avenue and lent a scrutinizing eye to everything that was laid before them. Dior, a perfectionist who drove himself, his workers, tailors and mannequins crazy, would run every piece of clothing that would go up on a mannequin, about a zillion times just to make sure that they were perfect. Often there would be moments when he would be stuck on one mannequin for hours trying to find out what was wrong with her outfit and end up adding a third button for the sake of aligning the aesthetics. Imagine the plight of the girl standing stiff in front of the man for hours at a stretch just for a button! Sometimes, he would throw away outfits, treating them as blasphemous designs, sending the model and the tailor, both into severe fits of tears. Whenever the models or their seamstresses came to him, pleading him to put their dress back in the show, he would try to explain to them with a heavy heart and say "It is true that I am demanding; but who is not, in pursuit of the realization of his dreams".
His obsession for everything beautiful was crazy. Dior had a passion for interior decor as well. Everything that was there in all his salons, workshops and stores, was his vision brought alive. The interiors also played a crucial role in his designs. He believed that there existed something called 'Salon Optics' just like Theatre Optics. The details which looked good in the workroom, didn't always look good on the model in the salon. Afterall, it was in the salon, that the deal would be sealed; all the ladies would be making their choices for purchases, the journalists will give the make or break take on the collection and retailers would make offers for unending stocks. So the clothes had to be salon ready. Bu at the same time, it couldn't happen that the clothes could only be suitable for viewing in a salon, it would then defy its main purpose of being worn around by women in general. Therefore, he had to strike the perfect balance to appeal to people both in the salon and outside it. Till the final night before the show, he would keep running between the workrooms and salons, sending piles of tules and tailors to and fro, while the models smoked while sitting semi-naked on whatever space they could find which wasn't drowned with clothing. He had a principle that he very strictly followed; he never looked at his clothes after the show was over. He believed that each creation was his child, and once they were revealed to the eyes of the world, he had given them the wings they deserved and they had lost the innocence they once possessed.
The other thing that he lost his mind about before the shows, was flowers! His love for flowers was not for professional reasons but entirely personal. Dior loved flowers as a child and has carried that love with him always to wherever he has travelled and worked. It goes without saying that a man who has such refined sensibilities should obviously be in love with flowers.
I came across something in his memoire that I have often heard modern day designer, the illustrous Sabyasachi Mukherjee say. Christian Dior wrote " Far from wanting to revolutionize fashion, I was chiefly concerned with producing a high standard of workmanship. Iaimed at being considered a good craftsman." If you are moved by reading this, then there is so much more to learn about his journey and the arduous hours spent in building the house of Dior, in not only Paris, but also New York and London, his other two favourite destinations.
To begin with, he was a shy man, living happily working as a designer for a fashion house that he was very well settled in. But as chance would have it, he got called in by then industry magnate Boussac to takeover and remodel an existing fashion brand all on his own. Dior, the always doubtful man that he was, took quite a while to drive up a decision. He refused to take up the job, but offered to create an entirely new house of fashion right from scratch.
All of this happened in the year of 1947, right after the war, when Dior thought that women deserved to get out of the blase pantsuits and into something that celebrated the female form. Thus entered the "emphasized bosoms, hollowed waists and accentuated hips" in his collection "New Look" and it took the women of France by a storm.
He describes every phase of his couture life in undeniable detail and the descriptions of how he prepared for his collections every season is an absolute delight to read! He divides his process in explicable detail. About 60 sketches are formed in nights of creative haze, and then comes the visualization of those fabulous dreams. He had a team full of women dedicated to the craft to the point of it being a crime. They were there with him in all the hours he spent in the house of 30 Montaigne Avenue and lent a scrutinizing eye to everything that was laid before them. Dior, a perfectionist who drove himself, his workers, tailors and mannequins crazy, would run every piece of clothing that would go up on a mannequin, about a zillion times just to make sure that they were perfect. Often there would be moments when he would be stuck on one mannequin for hours trying to find out what was wrong with her outfit and end up adding a third button for the sake of aligning the aesthetics. Imagine the plight of the girl standing stiff in front of the man for hours at a stretch just for a button! Sometimes, he would throw away outfits, treating them as blasphemous designs, sending the model and the tailor, both into severe fits of tears. Whenever the models or their seamstresses came to him, pleading him to put their dress back in the show, he would try to explain to them with a heavy heart and say "It is true that I am demanding; but who is not, in pursuit of the realization of his dreams".
His obsession for everything beautiful was crazy. Dior had a passion for interior decor as well. Everything that was there in all his salons, workshops and stores, was his vision brought alive. The interiors also played a crucial role in his designs. He believed that there existed something called 'Salon Optics' just like Theatre Optics. The details which looked good in the workroom, didn't always look good on the model in the salon. Afterall, it was in the salon, that the deal would be sealed; all the ladies would be making their choices for purchases, the journalists will give the make or break take on the collection and retailers would make offers for unending stocks. So the clothes had to be salon ready. Bu at the same time, it couldn't happen that the clothes could only be suitable for viewing in a salon, it would then defy its main purpose of being worn around by women in general. Therefore, he had to strike the perfect balance to appeal to people both in the salon and outside it. Till the final night before the show, he would keep running between the workrooms and salons, sending piles of tules and tailors to and fro, while the models smoked while sitting semi-naked on whatever space they could find which wasn't drowned with clothing. He had a principle that he very strictly followed; he never looked at his clothes after the show was over. He believed that each creation was his child, and once they were revealed to the eyes of the world, he had given them the wings they deserved and they had lost the innocence they once possessed.
The other thing that he lost his mind about before the shows, was flowers! His love for flowers was not for professional reasons but entirely personal. Dior loved flowers as a child and has carried that love with him always to wherever he has travelled and worked. It goes without saying that a man who has such refined sensibilities should obviously be in love with flowers.
I came across something in his memoire that I have often heard modern day designer, the illustrous Sabyasachi Mukherjee say. Christian Dior wrote " Far from wanting to revolutionize fashion, I was chiefly concerned with producing a high standard of workmanship. Iaimed at being considered a good craftsman." If you are moved by reading this, then there is so much more to learn about his journey and the arduous hours spent in building the house of Dior, in not only Paris, but also New York and London, his other two favourite destinations.