Lucknow - Travel Diaries - Schmoozing Over Coffee
- January 06, 2018
- By Samriddha Bhattacharya
- 1 Comments
Primarily because of my love for things old and beautiful, my family decided to visit Lucknow this winter.
I am a curious girl and a lover of listicles as well. So clearly, I made an itinerary before going on my vacation. Now you must be wondering who makes a list before going to a vacation, vacations are meant for relaxing and unwinding right? But I am an inquisitive soul, and if you take me to some place which has intriguing information I am gonna dig that out.
So let me take you through my Lucknow trip. What I have here could serve as a mini guide to all things important in the city. This post is not only about what is there to see in the city but also what is there to eat, and my observation of the city's people.
Beginning with where to go, Lucknow isn't too large a city and there are just about a few things to see. They are mostly next to the other so it won't take you much time to visit these places.
Monuments:
1. Bara Imambara
The Bara Imambara is a complex situated in Macchi Bhavan. The gate to the complex itself is a magnanimous affair. It spans over a large area and once you enter you can see three large monuments
a) Asifi Mosque
b) Imam Bargah, Bhool Bhulaiya
c) Shahi Baoli
After you enter, on your right you will see the Asifi Mosque. Non Namazis are not allowed to enter it, but you can go up the stairs.
On your left will be the Shahi Baoli. The Shahi Baoli was the royal stairwell. A number of stairs go down to an iron gate beyond which is the well. It doesn't have much water left now. Surrounding the stairs is a tunnel which served as a granary. Also in that tunnel there are passageways where the Nawab used to appoint one of his guards to keep a watch on the well. The people out there call it the water camera. The passageway is so positioned that anybody who sits there can see who is coming towards the well as a reflection on the well. This was done to check if any anybody was out there or if anybody tried to poison the water in the well. The Baoli was used to serve water to all the citizens of Lucknow during the time of the Nawabs.
The Imam Bargah is the massive prayer hall for all the Shia muslims. It houses all the elaborate Tajia used in their Muharram. The tomb of Asaf-ud-Daulah, the Nawab who had made the entire Bara Imambara present in this hall as well. Also, the architect who built the entire structure is also buried beside him. There are lots of chandeliers adorning the ceiling of the Imam Bargah and there are huge framed mirrors beside each of the Tajias.
Inside the Imam Bargah above the hall is the famed Bhool Bhulaiya. The path to it is guarded in rail. You need a guide to take you through it. There is an interesting fact about this Bhool Bhulaiya and that is, this wasn't a planned structure. It just happened when the Imam Bargah was being built in order to support its weight. There are more than 1000 ways to get in, but just 1 way to get out.
Apparently the bottom of the Imam Bargah has several secret passages going off to the Gomti River and the neighbouring regions but they have now been blocked.
The entire complex of Bara Imambara was built by Asif-ud-Daulah and legend says that this complex was built to provide employment to his citizens in the year of draught. Apparently whatever the workers built during the day, the Nawab's men broke it at night, so that the workers had to build it all over again. This ensured employment for a longer term.
2.Rumi Darwaza
Is a massive gate which marks the entrance into Lucknow (what is now known as Old Lucknow). It lies close to the Bara Imambara.
3. Clock Tower
After crossing Rumi Darwaza, the next monument that will come is the Clock Tower in Qaiserbagh. This was built by the British.
4. Picture Gallery
Right beside the Clock Tower is the Picture Gallery. In front of it is a huge stairwell, all in red. The Picture Gallery contains portraits of the bygone rulers of Lucknow.
5. Satkhanda
Next to the Picture Gallery is another monument called the Satkhanda. Satkhanda originally means seven floors but it has only four, because the Nawab who was getting it built passed away, and the workers stopped working on it. So when you see Satkhanda you will see that the top of it is incomplete. If you look at it you will get a feeling of having seen it somewhere before, that's because its architecture is a mix of that of Leaning Tower of Pisa and Qutub Minar.
6. Chota Imambara
The Chota Imambara has beautiful lights inside it. It is known as Palace of Lights because of the numerous chandeliers brought in from Belgium. It also houses the crown of Muhammad Ali Shah and has more ceremonial tajias. The tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah and his family members are also inside it.
7. The Residency
By far the most beautiful place in Lucknow. This too is a complex and is spread over an enormously large area and the lawns are so well maintained. It has the banquet hall that was used to hold feasts for the Britishers by the Nawab, the main Residency building, the treasury, and several others.
None of the buildings have the roofs anymore as they now exist in ruins.
There are a lot of memorials inside as well.
Here are some of the pictures of the monuments and buildings inside the residency.
The architecture of these buildings are very interesting. The house given to Dr. Fayrer's, the doctor who served the Residency, has an awkward design. Once you climb up the stairs, there are massive rectangular shaped caved out portions in the floor, and that IS the design. Its not a result of the ruins, but is a part of the entire interior design.
This Residency is the witness to the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny and there is a museum inside the Residency to commemorate it. There are 2 huge cannons outside the museum. Inside this museum there is a model of the entire residency and the portraits of the popular Nawabs and the most famous begum, Begum Hazrat. It also has several other pictures of the old Residency, the list of soldiers appointed to protect the Lucknow Residency and telegrams sent by British Officers.
This is where I learnt that General Claude Martin, who was French by birth but considered India to be his second motherland, died here in Lucknow and it was his last wish that a school should be constructed in Lucknow, Calcutta and Lyon. Because of this, the first La Martiniere school, known as La Martiniere College was constructed in Lucknow. He lies buried in the basement of Constantia, a sprawling estate where he once lived. Part of the Lucknow La Martiniere College is in Constantia.
8. Chhatar Manzil
Chhatar Manzil was previously made into the Central Drug Research Institute and has remained so till a few days. Now the institute has been moved outside and the building is going to be given Heritage claim. Apparently there is a tunnel below it which runs through the entire length of the building. This tunnel carries water from the Gomti River which is why, the guards over there claim that in summers if you stay inside the building, it is as cool as any air conditioned building.
This is another proof of the ingenious thinking of the then architects.
Also Chhatar Manzil holds the repute of curing any ailing person who comes to live in it. A nawab who was almost in his death bed was brought to Chhatar Manzil had been magically cured. While the people there think that it is the magic of Chhatar Manzil, there is probably a scientific reason behind it. I feel that since the building was exceptionally cool during summers, it helped in the improvement of health.
Chhatar Manzil had been established by Nawab Saadat-Ali-Khan, and was named after his mother Chhatar Kunwar.
Our cab driver even said that Chhatar Manzil was where Jolly LLB 2 was shot.
There are two parts to this place. The one in the front is called the Bara Chhater Manzil and the one behind is called choti Chattar Manzil. Both are undergoing renovations at the moment.
It has a huge garden and in that garden there is a cage full of monkeys as well.
This palace was where all the Nawabs had lived generation after generation.
9. Safed Baradari
A white palace in Lucknow. However no body ever lived here. It was a palace built for mourning. But our cab driver said that nowadays sometimes even weddings are held here. That's surprising ain't it?
10. Dilkusha kothi
Sadly we couldn't stop there and take a good look at it. However, we could see the extensive gardens of the kothi. Our cab driver said that the actual building isn't spread over a large area, but the building, though now in incredible ruins, is a sight to behold.
11. Butler Palace
I didn't go inside, 'cause when I told my cab driver (he was a wonderful man, he was an exceptionally well behaved person) that I wanted to go to Butler Palace next, he wasn't very keen. He said that the insides of this palace is in a terrible condition and that it is best not to go inside. But if you are keen to visit it, and have a more enthusiastic person along with you, then you can definitely go and visit it.
12. Amir Ud Daulah Library
I haven't gone inside it, just passed by it several times. It's a large white beautiful building, built following the typical Mughal architecture.
One thing that I noticed is that many of the monuments, have huge motifs of fish. Bara Imambara has them. Some of the unnamed monuments that you will see on different roads also have the same motif of fish. I don't know the exact reason behind these motifs and neither could anyone I spoke to tell me the reason.
Food:
One of the most important aspects of Lucknow!! The paradise for meat lovers one would usually say. Kebabs and biriyani rule, but vegans don't be disheartened. Much to my surprise there are a LOT of pure vegetarian restaurants present here. As for the others, follow on -
1. Dastarkhwan
Dastarkhwan is a popular restaurant in Lucknow. There are two of them. One in front of Shia college, and another near Tulsi Theatre Lane. The one in front of Shia college is a proper restaurant with a good ambience, the other is more like a dhaba type.
Their chicken biriyani has 4 pieces of nice tender meat. But if you are from Kolkata and in love with the golden potato under your rice, then you will be disappointed. They don't have any potato. Also their rice is much spicier than usual. However it is not oily at all, which is the best part.
Compared to the spice in the biriyani, their sides are not spicy at all. They have a nice creamy flavour, BUT, they have an ocean of oil. I am not exaggerating by using the word 'ocean'. Literally there is an entire thick layer of oil floating right at the top and below that you have the pieces of chicken in gravy.
2. Tunday Kababi
The most famous kabab joint in the whole of Lucknow. Tunday Kababi is inside Aminabad Market. It is situated in a narrow lane amidst several clothing shops. Right at the front they have skillets full of meat. They have seating arrangements inside, but its not spick and span at all. Very basic restaurant-y feeling, but the staff is amazing. There is an elderly man who has been working at Tunday Kababi for ages and he told me the story of Tunday kababs.
Tunday kabab is basically Galawati Kabab (pronounced Galaoti by many). It is called Tunday because of the first owner of the shop; his name was Tunday and he used to make the kabab and fry the kebab with the same hand, 'cause his other hand was missing. Galawati Kabab came into being when a Nawab, who was toothless in his old age, wanted to have kababs. So he needed something which would melt in the mouth. Galawati Kabab or Tunday Kabab, is so incredibly soft that it really does melt in your mouth. The meat is so finely minced and so flavourful. They have options of beef, mutton and chicken for these kababs.
They also have Tangri kababs. Their Tangri Kabab is slightly different. They slice open the meat of thighs and stuff it with chicken keema and then cook the pieces. So the kababs are pretty big in size and very tender.
Tunday kababi's biryani is different than that of Dastarkhwan. They don't have any Chicken Biriyani, they have only Mutton Biriyani. The biriyani is light and not spicy at all. Of course the potato is missing. The mutton piece was so soft and it was probably what we say in bengali kochi patha, that even the bone was chewed to dust. So you can imagine exactly how soft it was.
Here too the sides are SUPER oily. But the meat just falls from the bone.
You can find such kababs in the Saharaganj mall's food court as well. Even they taste good.
I have heard that in Chowk, there is a shop called Grandson of Tunday Kababi, but I hadn't visited that.
3. Prakash Kulfi
This too is in Aminabad, and is just a stone's throw away from Tunday Kababi. They sell only one flavour of kulfi and that is Kesari Kulfi.
They have a basic seating arrangement as well. Once you tell them about the number of portions you want at the counter, they will come and give it to you, irrespective of wherever you keep your "tashreef" (as they told us, "Ap zara yaha par tashreef rakhiye, humara ladka apko kulfi deke ayega."), upstairs or downstairs. And the best part is that the portions of kulfi are HUGE with ladels of falooda on it.
Another great kulfi spot is Chanakya Kulfi, near Parivartan Chowk, Tulsi Theatre Lane.
A lady I spoke to said that she loved Moti Mahal's (a very popular vegetarian restaurant) kulfi more than anyone else's. So if you feel like it then you can try their kulfi too.
4. Royal Cafe
There is respite from biriyani and kababs in Lucknow. You can find other cuisines in this cafe right opposite Saharganj mall. It is a spacious restaurant with a good ambience. It is a multi cuisine restaurant and their portions are enormous. Truly they are. Apart from that, it even tastes good.
Markets:
1. Alambagh Market
It is spread over quite a large area and there are shops of every possible kind. You can find merchandise of every range out here. There are numerous jewellery shops as well. This is an important commercial district.
2. Aminabad Market
Is one of the oldest markets of Lucknow. It is extremely cramped and this too is over an expanded area. This is more of a shopping spot where the prices are considerably low and the shops are basic.
Here is a short video of the market, while I was on my way to Tunday Kababi. I couldn't upload the entire video because of the 100mb limit.
3. Janpath Market
Is a more well spaced out market complex. The shops here are much fancier than the other markets that I have mentioned. Also it is the best place to buy Chikan merchandise from. There are lines and lines of chikan shops. This market is more youth-centric as well.
4. Chowk
Is the oldest shopping/commercial district of Lucknow. This has been there right from the Nawab's time. Its age is visible if you go there. There are buildings which are almost in ruins, yet this happens to be where most of the life is. Its absolutely chock-a-block, bustling with people and cramped shops.
5. Hazratganj
Hazratganj is a muuuch more cleaner, posh and spacious place to be. Right now the metro is being constructed there so it is a little congested, but it is way better than the other places. This is where the brands live. Most of the branded shops are found in Hazratganj, and this is where the Saharaganj mall is.
6. Gomti Nagar
Gomti Nagar is what is known as New Lucknow, an extension. This place has broad roads and beautiful buildings, enormous parks, shopping malls and star hotels.
7. Gautam Buddha Marg
This road, beginning from Naka Hindola (or Naka Chowraha) is always congested. This is a marketplace and also has numerous hotels. It also leads to the railway station of Lucknow, which is why it is always congested.
Parks:
1. Janeshwar Mishra Park
This is in Gomti Nagar, and will take you quite some time to go there from Old Lucknow. This is a MASSIVE park of Lucknow. It has been recently opened and is very well maintained.
It has a huge artificial lake which is full of different kinds of fish.
These fish aren't allowed to be caught. But you can feed them. We met a man who said that he came to feed the fish every evening. It was his only recreation. He even offered us some puffed rice to feed the fish. The park has a children's play area, cycling zones and many more amenities.
If you sit down on the many benches dotting the lake you can even hear music playing in the background. It is said to be the 10th largest park in Asia.
Our cab driver (yes, the same man I have been talking about) said that 'Yeh park London ka Hyde Park jaisa hain. Ek jhoola bhi lagne wala tha London jaisa, lekin woh abhi nahi ho payega. Koi susth ladka bhi isko pura cover nai kar payega, yeh itna bara hain.'
2. Dr. Ambedkar Park
Is also another beautiful park near Janeshwar Mishra Park itself, in Gomti Nagar. It has huge statues of elephants inside it and other kinds of models on the boundary walls. It is based on Rajasthan.
My very knowledgeable cab driver said 'Ek ek haathi pe 2 se 3 crore tak kharcha kiya gaya tha, itna sundar banaya hain.'
There are many more parks in Old Lucknow as well such as Gautam Buddha Park, Globe Park, Begum Hazrat Mahal Park. You will be seeing these parks on your way while going about in Lucknow.
Some Pictures of the City:
Other Things Notable About Lucknow:
1. People of Lucknow
The original people of Lucknow are extremely well behaved. They almost speak in shuddh hindi and in a very soft manner. The cab driver that I was fortunate enough to have on one uber ride, was very polite and said a lot of things about Lucknow. The other people too, be it shop owners, workers in shops, rickshaw pullers, tanga pullers, uber drivers, everyone was well behaved.
There was an occasion where the elderly man I spoke of in Tunday Kababi told us,"Inshallah, aap agar kal wapas yaha ayenge, toh ap jaisa Tangri kabab khane chahenge waisa hi khilaenge", when we told him that Tangri kababs in Kolkata were made differently.
Also, they are extremely patient people. I think patience is something inbuilt in them because Lucknow has absolutely no traffic rules. None at all. So losing their patience would just worsen the situation and nothing else.
Fortunately, there wasn't any uncomfortable encounter where the locals try to take advantage of tourists. Everyone, be it me or my family spoke to, were very amicable. I am very impressed by the people of Lucknow.
2. No religious divide
Lucknow, what the general perception is an islam oriented city, due to the history of Nawabs here. But I feel extreme pride in saying that every religion lives with ease in the city. Both Hindus and Muslims live together so peacefully and have great respect for each other. Also, the famed Hanuman Mandir near Gomti River, was actually built by a Begum. So you can probably imagine the brotherhood and respect that exists among the people of Lucknow.
3. Tanga Ride
Right outside Bara Imambara you can find Tangawallahs. A Tanga ride is so much fun! Just for Rs.50 they will take you on a small tour to the Clock Tower, Rumi Darwaza and Chikan Factory. If you want you can make a deal with them and roam around other places too.
4. Lucknow Chikan
The Tangawala took us to Chikan Factory, located in a part of Old Lucknow and that is where I learnt about the history of Chikan and its manufacturing process.
Chikan has been started by the Begums of Lucknow and at first it only used to be white thread work on white cloth. Now different colours of threads and materials are used, but original Chikan was only white on white. Chikan was also used on the Nawab's royal topis. Kadhai can only be done on thin materials like linen or light cotton or muslin. If the material is thick then the needle won't go through. Also summers in Lucknow are pretty hot, so the light material is beneficial for them. At first a block print is done on the material and then manually the threadwork is done following the outline of the block. Each pattern has a different name.
5. Gomti River
If you go to Gomti Nagar from Old Lucknow, you can see a long stretch of the Gomti River. But it isn't a fiery river like I had imagined. It has dwindled a lot.
My Experience:
I had a short trip of 3 days to this City of Nawabs. The reality of the city's physicality didn't match my expectations, but the historical aspects of the city had me awestruck. If you ever walk along the Imambara Road as the locals say, or Mahatma Gandhi Marg as Google says, on a winter evening and pass by the Imambara, a strange feeling will enter your being. Or even if you go to any of the buildings in the Residency. Touch the walls, and you will feel a strange connect to the era gone by. It's impossible to imagine the magnanimity of that time. You will feel like absorbing everything these places have to offer, but that's not possible, and that helplessness has an awkwardly beautiful feeling.
My Tip: Don't live on Google only
If you are like me and google around a lot, Jahangirabad Palace may pop up in your search. It is a palace, a huge one of course. But there are residents in that palace. If you enter its premises then a couple of security guards will ask you whom do you want to meet? If you ask them "Is this Jahangirabad Palace, can we see it?" They will say "This is Jahangirabad Palace. But what will you see? Do you want to meet someone?"
A young lady, all of 6 years met me at the entrance to the main building and very sweetly said "My grandfather is a King you know, but this isn't a monument. We live here."
Also it would be best to visit Lucknow during winters. The weather is absolutely amazing and the cold is thoroughly enjoyable. However during the summers, the temperature soars tremendously and that might affect your travelling around the city.
Monuments:
1. Bara Imambara
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| Gate of Bara Imambara |
The Bara Imambara is a complex situated in Macchi Bhavan. The gate to the complex itself is a magnanimous affair. It spans over a large area and once you enter you can see three large monuments
a) Asifi Mosque
b) Imam Bargah, Bhool Bhulaiya
c) Shahi Baoli
After you enter, on your right you will see the Asifi Mosque. Non Namazis are not allowed to enter it, but you can go up the stairs.
On your left will be the Shahi Baoli. The Shahi Baoli was the royal stairwell. A number of stairs go down to an iron gate beyond which is the well. It doesn't have much water left now. Surrounding the stairs is a tunnel which served as a granary. Also in that tunnel there are passageways where the Nawab used to appoint one of his guards to keep a watch on the well. The people out there call it the water camera. The passageway is so positioned that anybody who sits there can see who is coming towards the well as a reflection on the well. This was done to check if any anybody was out there or if anybody tried to poison the water in the well. The Baoli was used to serve water to all the citizens of Lucknow during the time of the Nawabs.
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| The spot from where you can see people coming in towards the well |
The Imam Bargah is the massive prayer hall for all the Shia muslims. It houses all the elaborate Tajia used in their Muharram. The tomb of Asaf-ud-Daulah, the Nawab who had made the entire Bara Imambara present in this hall as well. Also, the architect who built the entire structure is also buried beside him. There are lots of chandeliers adorning the ceiling of the Imam Bargah and there are huge framed mirrors beside each of the Tajias.
Inside the Imam Bargah above the hall is the famed Bhool Bhulaiya. The path to it is guarded in rail. You need a guide to take you through it. There is an interesting fact about this Bhool Bhulaiya and that is, this wasn't a planned structure. It just happened when the Imam Bargah was being built in order to support its weight. There are more than 1000 ways to get in, but just 1 way to get out.
Apparently the bottom of the Imam Bargah has several secret passages going off to the Gomti River and the neighbouring regions but they have now been blocked.
The entire complex of Bara Imambara was built by Asif-ud-Daulah and legend says that this complex was built to provide employment to his citizens in the year of draught. Apparently whatever the workers built during the day, the Nawab's men broke it at night, so that the workers had to build it all over again. This ensured employment for a longer term.
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| The Nawab who built Bara Imambara |
2.Rumi Darwaza
Is a massive gate which marks the entrance into Lucknow (what is now known as Old Lucknow). It lies close to the Bara Imambara.
3. Clock Tower
After crossing Rumi Darwaza, the next monument that will come is the Clock Tower in Qaiserbagh. This was built by the British.
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| Clock Tower and Stairwell in front of Picture Gallery |
4. Picture Gallery
Right beside the Clock Tower is the Picture Gallery. In front of it is a huge stairwell, all in red. The Picture Gallery contains portraits of the bygone rulers of Lucknow.
5. Satkhanda
Next to the Picture Gallery is another monument called the Satkhanda. Satkhanda originally means seven floors but it has only four, because the Nawab who was getting it built passed away, and the workers stopped working on it. So when you see Satkhanda you will see that the top of it is incomplete. If you look at it you will get a feeling of having seen it somewhere before, that's because its architecture is a mix of that of Leaning Tower of Pisa and Qutub Minar.
6. Chota Imambara
The Chota Imambara has beautiful lights inside it. It is known as Palace of Lights because of the numerous chandeliers brought in from Belgium. It also houses the crown of Muhammad Ali Shah and has more ceremonial tajias. The tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah and his family members are also inside it.
7. The Residency
By far the most beautiful place in Lucknow. This too is a complex and is spread over an enormously large area and the lawns are so well maintained. It has the banquet hall that was used to hold feasts for the Britishers by the Nawab, the main Residency building, the treasury, and several others.
None of the buildings have the roofs anymore as they now exist in ruins.
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| Entrance of The Residency |
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| Inside the Residency |
There are a lot of memorials inside as well.
Here are some of the pictures of the monuments and buildings inside the residency.
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| The Monument being mentioned previously |
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| Inside the Treasury |
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| The sides of the Treasury |
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| Dr. Fayrer's House |
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| The stairs to Dr.Fayer's House |
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| Inside his house |
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| These are perfectly carved out on the floor of the house |
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| The caved out portions I mentioned, the reason behind their presence is not known to me |
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| Banqueting Hall |
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| Inside of the Banqueting Hall |
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| This was probably a building with 2 floors, the placements of the windows seem to be indicating so |
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| Front of Begum Kothi |
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| Begum Kothi |
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| I don't know what this is, but it looks like a spot for punishment to me. Right below the iron bar that you can see, there is a big square hole, big enough for a man to pass through, covered by a removable perforated iron sheet. There is a stone ramp which leads up to here behind this. |
This Residency is the witness to the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny and there is a museum inside the Residency to commemorate it. There are 2 huge cannons outside the museum. Inside this museum there is a model of the entire residency and the portraits of the popular Nawabs and the most famous begum, Begum Hazrat. It also has several other pictures of the old Residency, the list of soldiers appointed to protect the Lucknow Residency and telegrams sent by British Officers.
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| Entrance to the Museum |
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| One of the canons outside the Museum |
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| The central room of the Museum, having the Model of the Residency and the portraits of the Nawabs and Begums |
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| The Model of the Residency |
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| Wajid Ali Shah |
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| Asaf Ud Daulah |
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| Begum Hazrat Mahal |
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| The painting of how the Main Building of the Residency looked |
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| Let's see how it looks like right now |
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| The Residency Main Building |
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| The insides of the building |
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| The cannons outside the building |
This is where I learnt that General Claude Martin, who was French by birth but considered India to be his second motherland, died here in Lucknow and it was his last wish that a school should be constructed in Lucknow, Calcutta and Lyon. Because of this, the first La Martiniere school, known as La Martiniere College was constructed in Lucknow. He lies buried in the basement of Constantia, a sprawling estate where he once lived. Part of the Lucknow La Martiniere College is in Constantia.
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| Martinier Palace |
8. Chhatar Manzil
Chhatar Manzil was previously made into the Central Drug Research Institute and has remained so till a few days. Now the institute has been moved outside and the building is going to be given Heritage claim. Apparently there is a tunnel below it which runs through the entire length of the building. This tunnel carries water from the Gomti River which is why, the guards over there claim that in summers if you stay inside the building, it is as cool as any air conditioned building.
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| Bara Chhatar Manzil |
This is another proof of the ingenious thinking of the then architects.
Also Chhatar Manzil holds the repute of curing any ailing person who comes to live in it. A nawab who was almost in his death bed was brought to Chhatar Manzil had been magically cured. While the people there think that it is the magic of Chhatar Manzil, there is probably a scientific reason behind it. I feel that since the building was exceptionally cool during summers, it helped in the improvement of health.
Chhatar Manzil had been established by Nawab Saadat-Ali-Khan, and was named after his mother Chhatar Kunwar.
Our cab driver even said that Chhatar Manzil was where Jolly LLB 2 was shot.
There are two parts to this place. The one in the front is called the Bara Chhater Manzil and the one behind is called choti Chattar Manzil. Both are undergoing renovations at the moment.
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| Chota Chhatar Manzil |
It has a huge garden and in that garden there is a cage full of monkeys as well.
This palace was where all the Nawabs had lived generation after generation.
9. Safed Baradari
A white palace in Lucknow. However no body ever lived here. It was a palace built for mourning. But our cab driver said that nowadays sometimes even weddings are held here. That's surprising ain't it?
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| Safed Baradari |
10. Dilkusha kothi
Sadly we couldn't stop there and take a good look at it. However, we could see the extensive gardens of the kothi. Our cab driver said that the actual building isn't spread over a large area, but the building, though now in incredible ruins, is a sight to behold.
11. Butler Palace
I didn't go inside, 'cause when I told my cab driver (he was a wonderful man, he was an exceptionally well behaved person) that I wanted to go to Butler Palace next, he wasn't very keen. He said that the insides of this palace is in a terrible condition and that it is best not to go inside. But if you are keen to visit it, and have a more enthusiastic person along with you, then you can definitely go and visit it.
12. Amir Ud Daulah Library
I haven't gone inside it, just passed by it several times. It's a large white beautiful building, built following the typical Mughal architecture.
One thing that I noticed is that many of the monuments, have huge motifs of fish. Bara Imambara has them. Some of the unnamed monuments that you will see on different roads also have the same motif of fish. I don't know the exact reason behind these motifs and neither could anyone I spoke to tell me the reason.
Food:
One of the most important aspects of Lucknow!! The paradise for meat lovers one would usually say. Kebabs and biriyani rule, but vegans don't be disheartened. Much to my surprise there are a LOT of pure vegetarian restaurants present here. As for the others, follow on -
1. Dastarkhwan
Dastarkhwan is a popular restaurant in Lucknow. There are two of them. One in front of Shia college, and another near Tulsi Theatre Lane. The one in front of Shia college is a proper restaurant with a good ambience, the other is more like a dhaba type.
Their chicken biriyani has 4 pieces of nice tender meat. But if you are from Kolkata and in love with the golden potato under your rice, then you will be disappointed. They don't have any potato. Also their rice is much spicier than usual. However it is not oily at all, which is the best part.
Compared to the spice in the biriyani, their sides are not spicy at all. They have a nice creamy flavour, BUT, they have an ocean of oil. I am not exaggerating by using the word 'ocean'. Literally there is an entire thick layer of oil floating right at the top and below that you have the pieces of chicken in gravy.
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| Dastarkhwan near Shia College |
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| Entrance to Dastarkhwan |
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| At the entrance to the Restaurant |
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| Chicken Biriyani of Dastarkhwan |
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| Chicken Biriyani and Chicken Korma |
2. Tunday Kababi
The most famous kabab joint in the whole of Lucknow. Tunday Kababi is inside Aminabad Market. It is situated in a narrow lane amidst several clothing shops. Right at the front they have skillets full of meat. They have seating arrangements inside, but its not spick and span at all. Very basic restaurant-y feeling, but the staff is amazing. There is an elderly man who has been working at Tunday Kababi for ages and he told me the story of Tunday kababs.
Tunday kabab is basically Galawati Kabab (pronounced Galaoti by many). It is called Tunday because of the first owner of the shop; his name was Tunday and he used to make the kabab and fry the kebab with the same hand, 'cause his other hand was missing. Galawati Kabab came into being when a Nawab, who was toothless in his old age, wanted to have kababs. So he needed something which would melt in the mouth. Galawati Kabab or Tunday Kabab, is so incredibly soft that it really does melt in your mouth. The meat is so finely minced and so flavourful. They have options of beef, mutton and chicken for these kababs.
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| Tunday Kabab |
They also have Tangri kababs. Their Tangri Kabab is slightly different. They slice open the meat of thighs and stuff it with chicken keema and then cook the pieces. So the kababs are pretty big in size and very tender.
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| Tangri Kabab with Keema |
Tunday kababi's biryani is different than that of Dastarkhwan. They don't have any Chicken Biriyani, they have only Mutton Biriyani. The biriyani is light and not spicy at all. Of course the potato is missing. The mutton piece was so soft and it was probably what we say in bengali kochi patha, that even the bone was chewed to dust. So you can imagine exactly how soft it was.
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| Mutton Biriyani and Chicken Masala |
Here too the sides are SUPER oily. But the meat just falls from the bone.
You can find such kababs in the Saharaganj mall's food court as well. Even they taste good.
I have heard that in Chowk, there is a shop called Grandson of Tunday Kababi, but I hadn't visited that.
3. Prakash Kulfi
This too is in Aminabad, and is just a stone's throw away from Tunday Kababi. They sell only one flavour of kulfi and that is Kesari Kulfi.
They have a basic seating arrangement as well. Once you tell them about the number of portions you want at the counter, they will come and give it to you, irrespective of wherever you keep your "tashreef" (as they told us, "Ap zara yaha par tashreef rakhiye, humara ladka apko kulfi deke ayega."), upstairs or downstairs. And the best part is that the portions of kulfi are HUGE with ladels of falooda on it.
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| Kesari Kulfi with Falooda |
A lady I spoke to said that she loved Moti Mahal's (a very popular vegetarian restaurant) kulfi more than anyone else's. So if you feel like it then you can try their kulfi too.
4. Royal Cafe
There is respite from biriyani and kababs in Lucknow. You can find other cuisines in this cafe right opposite Saharganj mall. It is a spacious restaurant with a good ambience. It is a multi cuisine restaurant and their portions are enormous. Truly they are. Apart from that, it even tastes good.
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| Mixed Noodles |
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| Chicken Fried rice |
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| Sweet and Sour Chicken |
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| Tutti Frutti |
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| Handi Khas Kulfi |
Markets:
1. Alambagh Market
It is spread over quite a large area and there are shops of every possible kind. You can find merchandise of every range out here. There are numerous jewellery shops as well. This is an important commercial district.
2. Aminabad Market
Is one of the oldest markets of Lucknow. It is extremely cramped and this too is over an expanded area. This is more of a shopping spot where the prices are considerably low and the shops are basic.
Here is a short video of the market, while I was on my way to Tunday Kababi. I couldn't upload the entire video because of the 100mb limit.
3. Janpath Market
Is a more well spaced out market complex. The shops here are much fancier than the other markets that I have mentioned. Also it is the best place to buy Chikan merchandise from. There are lines and lines of chikan shops. This market is more youth-centric as well.
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| Inside Janpath Market |
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| Inside Janpath Market |
4. Chowk
Is the oldest shopping/commercial district of Lucknow. This has been there right from the Nawab's time. Its age is visible if you go there. There are buildings which are almost in ruins, yet this happens to be where most of the life is. Its absolutely chock-a-block, bustling with people and cramped shops.
5. Hazratganj
Hazratganj is a muuuch more cleaner, posh and spacious place to be. Right now the metro is being constructed there so it is a little congested, but it is way better than the other places. This is where the brands live. Most of the branded shops are found in Hazratganj, and this is where the Saharaganj mall is.
6. Gomti Nagar
Gomti Nagar is what is known as New Lucknow, an extension. This place has broad roads and beautiful buildings, enormous parks, shopping malls and star hotels.
7. Gautam Buddha Marg
This road, beginning from Naka Hindola (or Naka Chowraha) is always congested. This is a marketplace and also has numerous hotels. It also leads to the railway station of Lucknow, which is why it is always congested.
Parks:
1. Janeshwar Mishra Park
This is in Gomti Nagar, and will take you quite some time to go there from Old Lucknow. This is a MASSIVE park of Lucknow. It has been recently opened and is very well maintained.
It has a huge artificial lake which is full of different kinds of fish.
These fish aren't allowed to be caught. But you can feed them. We met a man who said that he came to feed the fish every evening. It was his only recreation. He even offered us some puffed rice to feed the fish. The park has a children's play area, cycling zones and many more amenities.
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| You see that dense black mass? Yeah those are the fish eating puffed rice. |
If you sit down on the many benches dotting the lake you can even hear music playing in the background. It is said to be the 10th largest park in Asia.
Our cab driver (yes, the same man I have been talking about) said that 'Yeh park London ka Hyde Park jaisa hain. Ek jhoola bhi lagne wala tha London jaisa, lekin woh abhi nahi ho payega. Koi susth ladka bhi isko pura cover nai kar payega, yeh itna bara hain.'
2. Dr. Ambedkar Park
Is also another beautiful park near Janeshwar Mishra Park itself, in Gomti Nagar. It has huge statues of elephants inside it and other kinds of models on the boundary walls. It is based on Rajasthan.
My very knowledgeable cab driver said 'Ek ek haathi pe 2 se 3 crore tak kharcha kiya gaya tha, itna sundar banaya hain.'
There are many more parks in Old Lucknow as well such as Gautam Buddha Park, Globe Park, Begum Hazrat Mahal Park. You will be seeing these parks on your way while going about in Lucknow.
Some Pictures of the City:
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| As you go about the city you will keep finding structures of the olden times. Not popular, no names, incredibly worn down, but worth seeing. |
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| Charbagh |
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| Near Charbagh |
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| Worth noting of course!! There are 3 such shops in a row. Fascinating I would say. |
Other Things Notable About Lucknow:
1. People of Lucknow
The original people of Lucknow are extremely well behaved. They almost speak in shuddh hindi and in a very soft manner. The cab driver that I was fortunate enough to have on one uber ride, was very polite and said a lot of things about Lucknow. The other people too, be it shop owners, workers in shops, rickshaw pullers, tanga pullers, uber drivers, everyone was well behaved.
There was an occasion where the elderly man I spoke of in Tunday Kababi told us,"Inshallah, aap agar kal wapas yaha ayenge, toh ap jaisa Tangri kabab khane chahenge waisa hi khilaenge", when we told him that Tangri kababs in Kolkata were made differently.
Also, they are extremely patient people. I think patience is something inbuilt in them because Lucknow has absolutely no traffic rules. None at all. So losing their patience would just worsen the situation and nothing else.
Fortunately, there wasn't any uncomfortable encounter where the locals try to take advantage of tourists. Everyone, be it me or my family spoke to, were very amicable. I am very impressed by the people of Lucknow.
2. No religious divide
Lucknow, what the general perception is an islam oriented city, due to the history of Nawabs here. But I feel extreme pride in saying that every religion lives with ease in the city. Both Hindus and Muslims live together so peacefully and have great respect for each other. Also, the famed Hanuman Mandir near Gomti River, was actually built by a Begum. So you can probably imagine the brotherhood and respect that exists among the people of Lucknow.
3. Tanga Ride
Right outside Bara Imambara you can find Tangawallahs. A Tanga ride is so much fun! Just for Rs.50 they will take you on a small tour to the Clock Tower, Rumi Darwaza and Chikan Factory. If you want you can make a deal with them and roam around other places too.
4. Lucknow Chikan
The Tangawala took us to Chikan Factory, located in a part of Old Lucknow and that is where I learnt about the history of Chikan and its manufacturing process.
Chikan has been started by the Begums of Lucknow and at first it only used to be white thread work on white cloth. Now different colours of threads and materials are used, but original Chikan was only white on white. Chikan was also used on the Nawab's royal topis. Kadhai can only be done on thin materials like linen or light cotton or muslin. If the material is thick then the needle won't go through. Also summers in Lucknow are pretty hot, so the light material is beneficial for them. At first a block print is done on the material and then manually the threadwork is done following the outline of the block. Each pattern has a different name.
5. Gomti River
If you go to Gomti Nagar from Old Lucknow, you can see a long stretch of the Gomti River. But it isn't a fiery river like I had imagined. It has dwindled a lot.
My Experience:
I had a short trip of 3 days to this City of Nawabs. The reality of the city's physicality didn't match my expectations, but the historical aspects of the city had me awestruck. If you ever walk along the Imambara Road as the locals say, or Mahatma Gandhi Marg as Google says, on a winter evening and pass by the Imambara, a strange feeling will enter your being. Or even if you go to any of the buildings in the Residency. Touch the walls, and you will feel a strange connect to the era gone by. It's impossible to imagine the magnanimity of that time. You will feel like absorbing everything these places have to offer, but that's not possible, and that helplessness has an awkwardly beautiful feeling.
My Tip: Don't live on Google only
If you are like me and google around a lot, Jahangirabad Palace may pop up in your search. It is a palace, a huge one of course. But there are residents in that palace. If you enter its premises then a couple of security guards will ask you whom do you want to meet? If you ask them "Is this Jahangirabad Palace, can we see it?" They will say "This is Jahangirabad Palace. But what will you see? Do you want to meet someone?"
A young lady, all of 6 years met me at the entrance to the main building and very sweetly said "My grandfather is a King you know, but this isn't a monument. We live here."
Also it would be best to visit Lucknow during winters. The weather is absolutely amazing and the cold is thoroughly enjoyable. However during the summers, the temperature soars tremendously and that might affect your travelling around the city.
